Korea Trip 2010, Part 11: Namdaemun Marketplace, Part 2

Yes, another travel post finishedddd!  Anyway, I went to Namdaemun 3-4 times while I was Seoul because I liked it so much.  They had a HUGE jewelry/beads floor - but it was open only to wholesalers :( so I didn't get to buy anything.  You can watch people handmaking fabric flowers, feathered hairbands, etc - it's amazing to see the work that goes behind making a single hairband~ I didn't take enough pictures of this place because I was too busy poking my head into the little booths, but hopefully this post will give you a little taste of what it is like :}

This is a continuation to Namdaemun Marketplace, Part 1 :)
To start from the beginning go to Part 1: Flying to Tokyo

Anyway! To continue from Part 1: One my aunts told us not to exchange our money at the airport because it was a rip-off.  We did exchange about $200 at the airport for bus fares and such, but the rest of the cash we exchanged here:

From old ladies like this ^_^

It looked mad sketchy, but my aunt said that they give the best exchange rates.  These old ladies keep a couple thousand dollars worth of money in various currencies in a pouch around their waist; that and a little box set up with a calculator and rubberbands - that's all they need :}  These ladies have a little sign saying they exchange yen, yuan, won, and usd, but the exact exchange rate is somewhat informal because YES, you can bargain exchange rates.  It's best to go with an older fluent-speaking Korean man or woman to bargain for you because you'll get the best exchange rate.  However, don't expect to bargain too much either way, these ladies track the daily exchange rate and you won't be able to deviate much from that - it wouldn't be fair to them, honestly.  Either way, you'll probably get a better rate than what you will at the airport.  A lot of people both Koreans (about to visit the States I guess) and foreigners were exchanging money, so obviously it's quite legit.

At first I wondered why the exchange-ladies didn't get robbed but my aunt told me it's because these old ladies are in the same place everyday aka have their territory, so the people/shopkeepers around them know to "protect" them.   Plus most of these exchange-ladies are 50+ so you'd look like a right douche bag trying to rip off the bag they have strapped around their body.  Not to mention these streets are very busy, no way you'd get far without someone tackling you.

Anyway, less chat more pics ^_^!

Sign says: Dak Gom Tang aka Chicken Beef Soup

Gomtang (beef brisket & tripe soup) is a traditional soup that is enjoyed by many Koreans. In translation, gomtangbear soup but in this case gom refers to the extensive boiling which depicts the hearty flavors and nutrients that this dish provides. It is commonly said that consuming this soup will provide excellent strength much like a bear. - From Trifood

For lunch we ate at a real hole-in-the-wall at Namedaemun.  Gom-tang soup is one of my favorite Korean dishes...I have a weakness for beef broth soups and gom-tang is a rare treat for me because it's rather hard to make since it requires a lot of boiling.  But made properly, this beef soup is actually quite healthy since you are supposed to skim off most of the fat :) DAK gom tang is gomtang/beef soup with pieces of chicken in it.  Dak = chicken :)

Guy in blue shirt: The quintessential Korean "ahjusshi" aka older man.

Good lord, could he fit the ahjusshi stereotype any better -_-;;? Wonbin he is not.

How do you know this place has good, authentic food?  It's filled with old (aka aged 50+) Korean people xD  Younger folks tend to go to "trendier" fusion places, like coffee shops and cafes.  If you want to find real Korean food, follow the older Korean people.   This is the kind of restaurant that only locals know of and are able to keep regulars because of their food quality. They don't need a flashy setup because people come for the taste ;)

Some people may find the set up dingier and rather fire-hazardous (it SO is), but it all points to good cooking xD

Dak gom tang = Chicken-beef soup

This restaurant literally sells only one thing: dak gom tag. There's a small menu on the wall, but they are all different versions of this beef broth+chicken soup. Remember what I said about the best restaurants only serving one thing ^_^?

Anyway, you flavor the soup to your taste with spring onions and the soy sauce on the table.  The chicken leg is from Korean chickens, which are rangier and slightly less meaty than their American counterparts.   It was cooked so that the meat fell of the bones and melted in your mouth.  It was really clean tasting dish - it's hard to describe.    It's a "health" food, hence why a lot of old people are eating there ^_^ I believe it's pretty traditional as most dishes go.   Very simple but wholesome.  This was one of my favorite meals in Korea, which is saying something considering how many different places I ate.

Those stairs are even more sketchy in real life :\ Definitely would not have passed building inspection in America xD  They even had a pad of cloth taped to the ceiling above the stairs because people kept bumping their head into it ^^

Tangent: See the grannies in the back of the picture?   That is the classic halmoni (granny) in Korea wearing the halmoni "uniform" - wide-brimmed sunhat/cap, polo shirt, sneakers, khaki shorts, and short curly hair.   All grannies pretty much dress like that since it's both practical and comfortable.  Public transportation is free for all elderly citizens so you see a lot of older folk out and about :) They're all slightly off their rocker ^_~, but god knows I want to be just like them after I retire - bustling around a city, sightseeing with all my friends!  

I think free public transportation for senior citizens is something America should really implement.  Yes, senior citizens get discounts but that's really not the same thing as free.  I hesitate to make too many broad assumptions but I think if America did this, a lot of elderly people would become healthier (literally) just by having a way to get around for free.  Even if they have nowhere particular to go, I think the act of just being outside would increase the overall physical and mental health of ALL senior citizens, rich and poor, in America.

For dinner we went to another little restaurant, which was located inside one of the shopping buildings at Namdaemun.  It was sandwiched between the "imported furniture and goods" section and the "clothing/bath" section.   Random huh ^_^?

This place didn't even have a menu.  They just bring the food out to you since they serve only 2 things:

This was some good stuff and I don't even like seafood.  On the left is a salad with raw fish and hot sauce (a sushi salad if you will) and on the right is fish-head soup. You just eat everything with rice.

I was kind of nervous about the fish head soup - my aunt ate every bit of meat of the head O_O (which I didn't do) but damn the soup was tasty.  It was fermented soybean-paste soup with the "deep" flavor Koreans really like: a deep flavor means the soybeans were fermented for a long time.  It's really good for you ^_^

SOOOO GOOD.

After mixing my "sushi salad" I wolfed it down even though I could've done with less lettuce (I hate salads obviously).  But it was crazy good!  It's the best seafood dish I've eaten in my life~  The textures and flavors of the hot sauce + lettuce + raw fish just really make this a very simple yet yummy dish.  The texture of the raw fish was perfect - it tasted very fresh.   Supposedly, the raw fish is brought in fresh every day and never frozen - it certainly tasted that way.  Definitely one of yummiest "salads" I've ever eaten. And the idea of hot sauce instead of dressing appeals greatly to me. Not only is it less fattening, it adds a hella lot more flavor!

*whew* I didn't take any more pictures at Namdaemun Market, but I think you guys get the idea ^_^!  Like I said, this is my favorite marketplace in Seoul, perfect for picking up really useful things (cuz even as a makeup lover I know makeup is more a luxury than a necessity ^_~) and have all these interesting eateries nestled in between.  Don't get turned off by the cramped, occasionally dingy surface - this place is as real as it gets :D  It was really overwhelming at first - the hustle, the crowd, the number of things to look at - but it's so Korean, truly a vibrant clash of the new and old - I loved it :D!

On to Part 12: A Buddhist Temple in Seoul

 

Korea Trip 2010, Part 10: Namdaemun Marketplace, Part 1

Holy moly, this post has been backlogged since December!  Anyway, I'm finally posting it and god willing I will finish this Korea Trip 2010 series (for chrissake it's 2011 -__-;;).

Continued from Part 9: The 63 Building
To start from the beginning go to Part 1: Flying to Tokyo

Anyway, this is a two part post of about Namedaemun Marketplace in Seoul. Wiki describes it as a "traditional" marketplace - in my eyes it's the "home basics" marketplace.

Namdaemun Market is one of the oldest continually running markets in South Korea, and one of the largest retail markets in Seoul. The streets in which the market is located were built in a time when cars were not prevalent, so the market itself is not accessible by car. The main methods of transporting goods into and out of the market are by motorcycle and hand-drawn carts. It occupies many city blocks, which are blocked off from most car traffic due to the prevalence of parking congestion in the area. The market can be accessed by subway or bus; the location is within a 10 minute walk from Seoul metropolitan Hoehyeon Station, Line 4.

Much of the market is outside, but there are also many stores which line the streets. Many retailers buy their items, particularly clothing, at wholesale prices at Namdaemun, to resell in their own stores in other cities. Namdaemun is a popular tourist attraction.

So yep, they sell pretty much everything houseware-ish like dishes, pots, soap, ginseng, underwear, clothing, shoes, blankets etc. You can also order custom-made hanbooks (see below) and eat street vendor food.  This is my favorite marketplace in Korea :) even though it's not "targeted" towards younger folks like Dongdaemun Market (if I recall correctly).  There is a TonyMoly, The Face Shop, and Missha shop tho for those interested.  One thing this market lacks is clothing targeted to young folks aka the quintessential "Korean style" street clothing.   The clothing here are for older people. But for me, I love Namedaemun for the amazing range of stuff you can get here for great prices ^_^ You do have to barter *sigh* but you can get wholesale prices if you bargain right.  Naturally, shopkeepers tend to rip off foreigners/anyone who doesn't speak Korean fluently/doesn't know what they're doing but that's the nature of the bargaining world and they need to make a living too ;)

Fyi, my street knowledge is pretty limited - what I know is limited to what my aunts in Korea told me and my own experiences - so I apologize for any errors in advance :)

Here's my personal list of stuff I so recommend you buy if you're there:
1.) SOCKS - I adore the socks I got in Korea. I picked up the most adorable pairs for .50 - $1 USD each and they are the BEST socks I've ever worn.  They fit your foot like a glove and don't get all loose like stupid Fruit of the Loom socks do.  Getting some colored stockings (sock-length tights) and tights (full leg) wouldn't got amiss either.

2.) Dishes :D My mom brought back a collection of dishes where she only paid $1 USD/dish and in any currency that's a steal!  The only downside is that it's hard to transport but the quality is great plus they come with lovely, delicate prints.  They also sell nice dishes in dollar stores ;)

3.) Blankets!  We got summer blankets for only $10/each, both twin sized.  We didn't need other sizes but the factory made blankets sold usually have cute prints on it for very cheap.  Of course the downside is getting a huge bundle of blankets back home is an issue but do check out the lovely array of blankets (and pillows).

4.) Get a custom hanbok made!  I got mine made for ~$120 USD.  I picked the fabric, colors, and style.  The more modern styles tend to be more expensive, I got the most traditional version.  Everything is tailored to fit you though so it took my hanbok about 2 weeks to be completed.  So you may not be able to get one custom made if you're not if Seoul long enough to pick it up.  Most people do offer shipping though.

5.) For the less well-endowed, scout for a nicely padded bra :D!  I got ripped off (b/c of my poor bartering skills no doubt) but nonetheless, I bought two of the best bras I've ever worn!  They're flesh colored with pretty straps, very comfy, and have a clasp in the front. But most importantly, they come beautifully padded with removable inserts ;) ehehhe  I've been wearing my bras since last summer and they still look brand new. They don't stretch out like my VS bras (which are way too overpriced imho) and are just very well made.  I don't remember how much I paid but I don't particularly regret it.  Fyi - shop sellers sell bras imported from many different countries so they will carry bras labeled with peculiar sizes.  Hence the best way to gauge your boob size is generally just to *ahem* let the shop lady feel your breasts.  It would go down as physical harassment in America, but dude I think it's more legit than measuring your breasts with a tape measure a la Victoria's Secret because girls usually come in wearing heavily padded or ill-fitting bras which the tape measure never seems to account for.  OooOo and get a padded underwear! I totally forgot to get one but I am SO getting one next time to shape out my pencil skirts ^_~

....and that's all I can think of for now. 

In general, this twisty, narrow-alleyed market is a really fun place to explore.  There are so many nooks and crannies to find and you see all sorts of people. It's lovely, raw glimpse of Korea at it's worst and best.  There were lots of foreigners wandering about when I was there too so for non-Koreans, you shant feel too out of place :)

Now onto the pics!

Street vendor food :D I know Korea is quite renowned for their tasty street vendor food and my rule of thumb is to try the booths you see the most native Koreans line up ;) ehehe  I had two of these fish/tempura sticks - they were yummy ^^

Wang mandoos/dumplings!  We bought it in a set of 4 and they were placed in a little black garbage bag looking thing.

I believe this was pork :) It's been almost a YEAR since I took this picture so I don't remember the taste but it was good. In Part 11, I have even more pics of food~

Forward to Part 11: Namdaemun Marketplace, Part 2!

Korea Trip 2010, Part 9: The 63 Building

Continued from Part 8: Apartments in Seoul
Or start from the beginning, Part 1: Flying to Tokyo

This is long, pic-heavy post :D So brace yourselves y'all!

It was raining :P Hence the crap picture.

While I was in Korea, I was very lucky to have the opportunity to visit the Korea Life Insurance/63 Building in Yeouido, Seoul, Korea.  The names come from the fact that the HQ of Korea Life Insurance and other major financial firms are there and how it's 63 stories tall!  It was the tallest building outside of North America till 1985 and though it isn't even in the Top 100 Tallest Buildings anymore, it's still a major tourist attraction.  There is an IMAX theater, an aquarium, a wax-doll museum, world-renowned restaurants, and an art gallery.  Read the wiki page if you're ever in Korea because this is a definite must-see.  Not to mention the sheen on the building is beautiful, it's a molten bronze-gold even on a rainy day~ Just look at the pic I got off Google:

Isn't it just beautiful ^_^? Anyway, some trivia: there is an elevator called the Love Elevator (for couples only!), a private 1 minute ride up ;) You should definitely do this if you're in Korea with your boyfriend...eheh imagine everything you can do in a minute in a private glass elevator (ok I have a dirty mind xD).  Also the Korean drama, My Girl, shot a lot of scenes here :D

The entrance had a bunch of these huge metal balls (ehehe) on the floor.   The windows inside are really reflective :)  When we got up to 57th floor, the door opened to this:

There are a lot of very famous restaurants on the 57th floor, they're all fusion or traditional Western, Korean, Chinese, or Japanese restaurants.  The restaurant we ate at was Paengni-hyang (백리향), a traditional Chinese restaurant.

PAENGNI-HYANG is the best place to enjoy Chinese food with the authentic taste and aroma of Cantonese cuisine. We offer Chinese delicacies of world-class quality that satisfy world's gourmands, all prepared with rare and precious ingredients and profound relish. The qualities are achieved by our Cantonese Chef, with careful preparation, using only the finest natural ingredients.

The website is very minimal :P but I took many pictures, so you guys can all see what it was like! Believe it or not, this is only a fraction of the pics I took at this restaurant ><

Supposedly, the chef is some amazing, award-winning chef that specializes in only traditional Cantonese food ^_^ 

There were traditional Chinese wedding outfits hung on the wall off to the right, but I forgot to take a picture of it.  We were escorted to a private room; I'm not sure if everyone gets a private room to eat but I didn't see any open dining areas.  It was just a long corridor of doors O_o

This was our room.  It didn't photograph very well because of the terrible weather outside :P

This is Seoul from 57 stories up!  The weather was SO bad, on a clear day you can see all the way to Incheon usually.  Anyway, remember what I said about Korea being covered with sky-rise apartment buildings? Well, here's proof ^_^  The bottom picture is the Han River - scene of many a breakup, secret rendezvous, make-out session, and killing sprees in K-dramas and movies ^_^  If there's a river with lights along a bridge in a k-drama, it's 99% certain that it's along the Han River.

The table arrangement was very elegant.  I particularly dig the polished wooden slats embossed with flowers ^^ We were served chrysanthemum tea while we were waiting and given cool, damp towels to wipe our hands.  Then came the food!  We ordered the "seafood" course so the meal was seven courses of various seafood-based dishes.  The waitresses were dressed in black qipaos and impeccably mannered. And I'm sorry, but I don't know the names of anything ><!   If I mis-named anything, please let me know~

The first course was some kind of broth.  Btw the 3 little dishes are peanuts, pickles and something I forgot.  It was the one thing about this restaurant I thought was oddly "cheap." I mean peanuts and pickles?  I'm not sure if this is because of Koreans just wanting something crunchy with a bit of tang to eat (since there was no kimchee ahah) or that these are things that Cantonese eat often?  Not sure, please let me know if you do!

The broth was super light and had a very "clean" taste - aka the mark of a well-made broth.  Absolutely no fat floating on the top at all.  In the broth were pieces of shiitake mushrooms, some sort fluffy fish-flavored rectangles (like fish cakes?), and black chicken.  I know black chicken is a rare delicacy in Asian culture, I believe it's called a Silkie chicken.  Koreans believe black chicken is very healthy and has curative properties for one reason or another.  The meat was very delicate and literally fell off the bones.  It tasted like a regular chicken ^_^ but the way it was cooked made it melt in your mouth.  I enjoyed this course immensely - it was a great little dish to pique my appetite.  I think this was my favorite dish.

The second course was probably my least favorite because of that unpleasant looking blob on the plate >< It's a sea slug and while it tasted pretty good, cinnamon-y, the texture made me want to barf >_<!  The outside/skin covered with a cinnamon-flavored sauce (the sauce you see on dish).  While the sauce was quite good, it made the skin seem slimy and uncannily...alive >_>  The skin just slips off the *ahem* innards, which were stuffed with something I recall tasting pretty good.  The innards were bready and delicately spiced but I was so busy recovering from the slimy skin, I didn't enjoy it.  The skin is rubbery, very hard to cut, and very, very chewy.  I found it hard to chew and it felt like it was getting stuck in my throat (or that may have been my gag reflex).

The oval things were nothing particularly amazing. There was more sea slug in the middle *ugh* which is prolly why I didn't enjoy it very much.   I was very happy to see this dish go ^^;;

The third course was very good! It was abalone with hatch marks cut on it so that it was perfectly cooked.  There were also pieces of fried scallops (I think).   I don't remember what the sauce tasted like - lemony maybe, but I recall enjoying this dish.

Fourth course: fried shrimp, a slice of sweet potato, all drenched in some sort of sweet and sour sauce. I liked this dish even though it was a little on the sweet side.   Also isn't the rectangular dish friggin awesome?!

Like I said, this was very sweet - almost like a dessert, but it was still really good.  The crispy-soft texture of the shrimp was an interesting contrast with the slice of sweet potato.  Quite enjoyable for me, but I know people without a sweet tooth may find this too cloying.

Fifth course: My second favorite!  An absolutely perfectly medium rare piece of beef.  The sauce was not teriyaki or anything I ate before. Quite unique.

Really enjoyed this piece of beef. I'm not going to lie, I'm not big on seafood ^^ so this was a nice break for me~  I polished this off pretty quickly.

The sixth course was an option between jajangmyun or what is in the pic above.  I liked this a lot - a tie for second place even though I was getting pretty full at this point.  It was a filling broth with noodles, shrimp, scallions, other sea food I can't name, spring onions...and I'm going to stop trying to name things because it's embarrassing ^^  It was comforting, homey dish ^_^

The seventh and last course was dessert!  As most you guys probably know, Asians aren't too big on sweet desserts.  We got little balls of pistachio ice cream, which I enjoyed even though I don't like pistachios, and chilled fruit pieces.   When we were done, a glass of dessert wine was brought out.

This was a tangy, sweet drink with just the barest hint of alcohol~ I don't like the taste of alcohol, but I love dessert wines.  A very nice way to end the meal indeed :) That's one of my little cousins through the glass btw ^_^

*whew* That was a long post~  Next up, Part 10: Namdaemun Marketplace, one of the most famous open air markets in Seoul!